Heat up your hotend to your regular printing temperature and ensure that the nozzle is in a position above the bed where it can freely extrude filament.Connect your computer to your printer and open up a program that allows you to send individual gcode commands to it (like Pronterface, Simplify 3D, Repetier Host, or Octoprint web interface).First measure out 120mm of filament from where it enters your extruder and mark it with a pen or marker.Then we'll measure how much plastic it extruded and see if it actually was 100mm - pretty simple! To calibrate the steps/mm value, we tell the printer to extrude 100mm of plastic. Leave the extruder steps/mm as stock, and go straight to the extrusion multiplier calibration step.įor any other extruder styles like the classic hobbed gear and bearing set up, you should follow the steps below calibrate your extruder steps/mm. This includes the Prusa MK3 and MK3S which have bondtech gears built in inside. In this case, you should follow the manufacturer’s specification.

First, we want to sort out how much plastic is being fed in to the hotend (regardless of any values like extrusion width, extrusion multiplier, filament diameter etc), and then move on to how the printer is behaving in terms of the plastic actually being pushed out and laid down.įor users with a bondtech or similar extruder, I would recommend skipping the extruder steps/mm calibration as these extruders already come with very specific recommended values. There are two parts to calibrating your extruder - tuning your extruder steps/mm value, and tuning your extrusion multiplier.

Having your extruder properly calibrated is essential for perfecting your print quality, and this guide will walk you through the entire process from beginning to end.

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